June 29, 2019
The best way I can describe Juneau is in the words of my shuttle driver, Marcos. As he drove through the vibrant, green valley from Juneau International Airport to the hotel at 10:30 p.m., he gestured out the window into the twilight at the bald eagles perched on the street lights. “The view at this time of day is most glorious,” he said proudly. Indeed, Juneau is “most glorious” at every turn.
Mendenhall Glacier and Nugget Falls are high on the must-do list of attractions for visiting Juneau and was my first adventure. The falls can be reached via helicopter, kayak, or hiking. However you arrive, the view is spectacular. The Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center has an excellent display of information about the microorganisms that live on and within glaciers, including something called “watermelon snow.” I highly recommend taking the walking trail from the parking lot, under the road to the visitor center. The walk is a little longer, but bears are notorious for fishing in the streams around the visitor center where the trail crosses at certain times of day.
Juneau welcomes the wildlife to coexist with the city and takes great care to protect it. Bald eagles fish during low tide in the valley, so in the morning and early afternoon I saw view several bald eagles perched on trees, swooping into the water, or casually hanging out on the street lights above the highway. Black bears wandering into town or sharing hiking trails are an everyday occurrence. I was advised to let the bears pass me by, or clank two rocks together to encourage them along since they hate the sound. Unfortunately, or fortunately, I did not see a black bear, but I have added this advice to my bear-survival skills arsenal.
One afternoon, I was invited to lunch on the fishing boat, Heather Anne. I had the pleasure of meeting Heather Anne and learning what her childhood was like growing up in a fishing family. Taku River Reds now owns the boat as part of their small fishing fleet who fish the Taku River. They are part of the Salmon Beyond Borders campaign to defend and sustain the fishing industry in Southeast Alaska and Northwest B.C. Lunch was a simple Italian seafood stew made with halibut cheeks, and a variety of freshly caught, filleted, and grilled salmon. I sampled King, White King, Chum, Sockeye, and Pink, and can honestly say I have never had more fresh or more pure tasting salmon.
Juneau has a wonderfully diverse offering of food options that highlights the fresh seafood and produce available to Southeast Alaska. Walking around Juneau you will find purveyors create food stands out of cargo containers, trailers, or an open grill, serving cruise ship day-tourists and local workers alike. I had the pleasure of attending a “Taste of Juneau” one evening which featured 18 local restaurants, vendors, and suppliers which included everything from James Beard nominated restaurants to longtime family owned local favorites. I even tried “candied salmon ice cream.” The Juneau food scene is unexpected and completely inspiring. I cannot wait to return.
If Alaska has been on your travel list as long as it has been on mine (my lifetime), I highly recommend you begin planning a trip immediately. I have provided a list of businesses from my experiences, but honestly no matter what your adventure you won't be disappointed. Juneau is a big-hearted city and the people are extremely warm and welcoming. The list below is only a hint of what awaits you.
Where to eat and drink
Alaskan Brewing Company - Find local suppliers or visit the tasting room in Juneau
Coppa - Handmade ice cream and coffee shop
Deckhand Dave’s Fish Tacos - Located in the outdoor food court on Franklin St, the best fish tacos in Juneau
Forno Rosso Pizzeria & Catering - You still want great pizza in Alaska
Gold Creek Alaskan Salmon Bake - Dinner includes a waterfall hike and roasting marshmallows with black bears
Hangar on the Wharf - Delicious food, cold drinks, on the waterfront...get the best seat in house on the waterfront
Heritage Coffee Roasting Co. - Everything you want in a local coffee shop
The Sandpiper Cafe - Get the sourdough pancakes, and the lox and bagel, and the omelets...
The Salmon Spot - Locally recognized as making the best salmon burgers and chowder, this is the most adorable spot
Tracy’s King Crab Shack - Also a local favorite for the crab bisque, crab bisque...and pretty much everything else on the menu
Where to find Alaskan seafood online
What to read
Hearthside Books in Juneau provides this list of local authors. Here is my "to be read" list:
Travels in Alaska, by John Muir
